Dolores is full of life. To the kitchen opens at 5pm, there is already a line to enter the new bed dining room, although it doesn’t look like one. In Brooklyn’s way, especially in the evening of early July, when the still shining sunlight thickens the air, those waiting for the table at unfixed points hung on aluminum chairs outside. There is no formal outdoor seating, chairs scattered casually on the sidewalk, where the groups gather under marigolds and green Dolores awnings (Dolores awnings), and there is a tree that provides much-needed shadows – smoke swirling from the smoke trays on the sidewalk barbecue, surrounded by Tompkins Avenue and Bertram L. Bertram L. Bertabe.
Dolores, Winona’s new sister restaurant, Bed-Stuy Darling, originally opened in the spring but repeatedly delayed. By the time of its debut on July 2, people eagerly waited for two hours to try. The restaurant is the second concept of couples team Cressida Greening and Emir Dupeyron, whose first joint venture Winona’s is a neighborhood haunt for seasonal American cuisine and big wine.
Together with Dolores, the couple, along with partner and beverage director Leanne Favre, wanted to feel at home for locals. This time, they get deeper into the roots and offer an authentic Mexican urban-style experience. They searched for real estate until they landed on this corner space on Tompkins Avenue, a block with several other small independent businesses and restaurants. Dupeyron and Favre have lived in bed for more than a decade, and most of the employees in Dolores live within walking distance.
“We really want our staff to get the meaning of being a bedridden neighborhood location and to understand and respect that history, which makes it a reality,” Greening told Observer.
Within a well-lit space, Dolores strikes a balance between the modern Brooklyn hub and the old Mexican city tavern. Put the tables tightly together so you have to wipe sideways between them, all filled with customers. Several chatted while their kids were excited with her Freehalls Meneados (Cheesy Refried Beans). Two moms with teenage daughters looked at the menu and greeted them in the bar. Woman with gray hair and thick glasses leans on Botana, forming the entire menu along with tacos and the daily tortilla magazine (Enchilada Special). A tall young couple snacks on Negra Modelo and congratulates Dupeyron when he pops out of the paper chef’s hat like a 1950s burger attraction.
There were 20 and 30-year-olds sitting, standing, greg yelling, as music (echoed from the large wooden floor speakers to hang from the ceiling round) picked up halfway between my meal, about 6pm.
There was popcorn concrete on the walls, including the wall lamp, which made me feel like I fell into an old stucco Casita. This is made of white tin, and the art is a mixture of green and dark oil paintings Duperon bought in Mexico City. The bathroom is turquoise, from ceramic tiles to sinks and toilets, a medieval treat that feels like it was before Dolores, but not.
“We want [Dolores] It has a sense of familiarity, quality is one. Whenever the guest says it doesn’t look new, or it feels like we’ve been doing it for years. For us, it is important for us to have a sense of place and a specific quality. ”
The menu focuses on traditional Cantina bites and bold flavors that don’t lower spice levels. Prices are moderate (at least for New York City), considering the quality, with shared plates (such as a heaping bowl of $14 guacamole with chips, a $4 fried corn tortilla stuffed with mashed potatoes and bite-sized $12 croquetas filled with queso and wild Mexican greens), single $8 tacos packed with fillings, a hearty plato del dia for $22 to $26 and $2 late night Tacos weekends at 11pm until the kitchen is out, or until the location is closed at 1am
While you can (on Saturday and Sunday), short rib tacos and Chile Relleno, Dolores boycotted Mexican-American Mexican-Americans, including names like lengua “El Bosque” (Braisoings Beef Tongue Tongue Tacos) and Cochinita Pibil “Cochinita Pibil “eelix”, all with restaurants that commemorate the restaurant.
MASA comes from Brooklyn Tortilla Sobre Masa, which imports corn from Mexico and uses a traditional Central American process called the process of emulsification of Nixtama, boils the corn in wood ash or lime solution to soften the kernel and turn it into dough. Dolores makes tortillas by hand and also uses Masa to make SOPE, Gordita and Tlacoyo.
Some of the outstanding figures include the seafood Joshil of octopus, shrimp and squid, thinly pressed into fresh, bright lime marinade and red onions. It is bright and rich; good enough to spoon on your own when the octopus disappears, although the homemade tortilla chips are still slightly warm.
Gordata de Chicharrón Prensado emphasizes the soil depth of the blue Masa, thicker than tortillas, and bakes. Gordita is a pocket filled with warm, spilled pork, Crema and Queso Fresco. It all has good calorie levels on its own, but two salsa (herb-rich cape Verde) and a creamy tomato flavor that is slightly sweet and spicy – on a plate with lime, it’s fun to alternate with each bite.
Tlacoyo de Haba also uses blue MASA, but instead of a round Gordita, it rolls it into teardrops and presses so that the smooth Fava Bean Puere will seep out when your fork cuts into it. On top of that, a prickly pear cactus salad offers a new component for comfort foods, showing the restaurant’s way to balance bold rather than overly complex flavors.
The drink menu focuses on tequila cocktails (all $16), three Mexican Cerveza options, and some fun low- and non-alcoholic drinks, including Suero, a beautifully hydrating drink from Topo Chico and Lime Juice, known in Mexico’s Salt Rim to help ease the suspension. Favre shows off her exquisite blender approach, pairing with drinks such as drinks made with rum, rose vermouth, five thorn pearl stills, guava or rice washing, rose vermouth, thorn thorns and rice washing. However, Dolores stick to their classic Cantina roots and have straightforward choices, they are on hot July days like a strong Margarita or a bottle of cerveza in Cervensation.
While everything from fragrant icy tequila, 1930s Mexican art and dance-like playlists makes it easy to balance between bed and Mexico City, the one thing I’m left with is, who is Dolores?
“Dolores is the name of Emir’s great-grandmother, Juggernaut, a patriarch, who can be said to be a sophisticated chef,” Greening said. “We think this name fits with Cantina’s concept because ‘Dolor’ means pain or sorrow, and Cantina can drown her own sadness in history.”
While the name may fit into the dark side of Cantina culture, Cressida, Dupeyron and Favre poured joy into this Cantina, but it showed it. Dolores provides footage for Mexico City, but first of all, bed husband locals enter places for friends, family, food and conversation without fuss or keeping.
