Kolhapuri vs Prada: Heat “copy” Gi-tagged Chappals flares as luxury brands move to tradition
It all started with the runway in Milan. When Italian fashion giant Prada launched its spring and summer 2026 collection, a pair of leather sandals didn’t stand out because of their sharpness, but looked familiar.
Their open braided design is very similar to the Kolhapuri Chappal, a handmade Indian footwear that dates back to centuries. Italian luxury brand Prada faces the heat of showing off Kolhapuri-style sandals at Milan Fashion Week without praising its Indian origins. Local artisans and stakeholders in India called the move a “cultural theft” and now a Public Interest Litigation (PIL) filed in the Mumbai High Court.
But while the design has gained recognition in India, the label has not. The Prada version, simply described as a “leather sandal”, costing over Rs 1 lakh, without mentioning the Indian origins of the craft, triggering a bounce.
Artisans from Kolhapur: “We feel forgotten”
The town of Chappals from Maharashtra originated in Maharashtra and is a powerful open letter directly to Prada. The letter is widely shared on social media: “They are more than just footwear. They are stories of sewn into leather, the pride of generations… When we see them on your runway, we are proud. But when we read the tag – “Leather Sandals” – we feel forgotten… calling them Kolhapuri.
The letter was shared by Shopkop founder Rahul Parasu Kamble, who led the rightful appeal, posting: “Prada 0: Kolhapur 1.”
Prada eventually acknowledged the roots of Indian design, calling it “inspired by handmade footwear in India” and claimed that sandals are still in the design stage.
But for many, it’s too late to admit it.
PIL filed in Mumbai HC
The Mumbai High Court filed a Public Interest Litigation (PIL) against Italian luxury brand Prada, accusing it of copying the GI tag Kolhapuri Chappals in the Spring/Summer 2026 series.
Intellectual property advocate Ganesh s Hingmire filed on July 2 PIL claimed that Prada’s recent launch of “toe sandals” is very similar to Kolhapuri Chappals, a cultural symbol of Maharashtra.
The request claims that Prada’s actions constituted a protected Indian design of “false statements, cultural misappropriation and unauthorized commercialization” that was shown in Milan’s fashion incidents without acknowledging its GI status or traditional roots. Although Prada acknowledged the influence behind its design, PIL noted that there was no formal apology or compensation provided to the craftsmen or the GI registry.
“Kolhapuri Chappal is a cultural symbol of Maharashtra and has a special public sentiment. The brand has privately accepted its collection “inspired by Indian artisans”, but this recognition only surfaced after widespread opposition on various social media platforms. This recognition is a private link to private private. Registration form, government or the public as a whole has not issued any formal apology, as well as any damages, compensation and eligible remedies, the statement seems to be a superficial attempt to deflect criticism.”
‘500 rupees Chappal for sale for Rs 10,000: Radhika Gupta
Radhika Gupta, CEO of Edelweiss mutual fund, also criticized the move: “Rs 500 Chappal is sold for Rs 1 lakh, without any credit!” She added: “Every child knows who Prada and Gucci are, but few people know Himroo, Sambalpuri or Narayanpet in the room. Our textile heritage and craftsmanship can protect, brand and benefit from it.”
Despite the anger, some fashion insiders saw a silver lining. Celebrity designer Bhawna Rao believes the incident may arouse new curiosity and investment in Indian handicrafts. Shirin Mann, founder of footwear label, called Kolhapuri Chappals “a huge recall value.” “While this may not be a direct collaboration, global visibility may be powerful…but reinterpretation should come with context, credit and ideal collaboration.”
Kolhapuri Chappal, a major garment of Indian ethnic groups, was originally made from a local shoemaker community with tanned leather from vegetables, gained GI status in 2019, linking handicrafts to eight regions in Maharashtra and Karnataka.
